Monday, March 14, 2011

Report from the city of 10 thousand deaths swallowed by the wave

MINAMISANRIKU - The lost city should be below. No one resigns himself to believe, but true. Your feet sink into a quagmire black, mixed with sand, oil, salt, concrete beams covered with insects and fish. It could be a pond that is drying up, crossed by odor adhesive, used as landfill. Instead, he tramples Minamisanriku and never want for fear of hurting someone.

Few responders arrived here and the first time they left, convinced that the fishing port town until Friday for seventeen thousand people lie elsewhere. They're back now, driven by the survivors of the place and the GPS and now have no doubts. This desert covered now by gulls, from which emerges one leg bent inward from the ocean opens up to nine kilometers.

The level of the Pacific, which moved over the north - east coast of Honshu island, remains high for at least two kilometers. Not one boat was saved, the beach is crossed by quicksand and no one is going to recover the art, became the signal of the disaster. Here were thousands of buildings, docks, roads, schools and a small hospital.

If this is really Minamisanriku, there is hope. For three days there is no trace of at least half the population. Ten thousand people have disappeared in a few minutes, overwhelmed by the first great wave triggered by the quake. After 72 hours, you can find people alive under the rubble of an earthquake, not in the mud of a tsunami.

Who was saved in the hill districts, dangle on the street and see the impressive wake horizontal, similar to a vertical open by an avalanche. The ground level has dropped and the impression is that it is now lower than that of the sea. And why Minamisanriku has been wiped out and that aid has not yet arrived.

The roads are broken, everything must be transported by hand. Lacking food, no drinking water, electricity is suspended. Nor can one escape: the pumps, three miles inland, do not work and the fuel is exhausted. This city has swallowed the last symbol of the catastrophe that afflicted the eastern prefectures of Miyagi, Iwate and Fukushima, north of Tokyo.

It begins, however, to note with horror that is just one of many, one of the hundreds of places in Japan that no longer exists. After a day trip along the coast swallowed by the ocean, now deserted and silent, groped does not make sense to count the dead and missing. Ten thousand? Twice? This suggests that even thirty thousand people will be few.

Faster counting the survivors and the injured and hope that many are able to escape within hours and not capable to make the announcement of their salvation. "When it's over the great shock - Natsu Kawabata says, a lawyer in Minamisanriku - I rushed back home. I saw about thirty cars in the column, which sped up the street.

Behind them rose the wave. The water was coming, swept away houses and cars sped up again. One after another, in half a minute, were all engulfed. In the fourth there were my wife and son of Hojo 7 years. He was on the phone with me and shouts "is made, we are saved ". If there is no longer a part of Honshu it is also due to the extraordinary quality of buildings earthquake-proof, who have betrayed the people.

After the shock of 14:46, the absence of collapse has caused people to delude themselves to have suffered an extraordinary event, but not destructive. The tsunami warning was launched nine minutes later, nineteen before the ocean would rise twenty feet above the coast. The wave has broken out of a population poured out on the street, who was trying to understand what had happened, unable to follow the calls to the flight launched on TV, turned off by the interruption of electrical power.

The majority has ignored the danger of the Pacific, or has underestimated the speed, being torn away with the helmet on the head of emergency. And 'this excess of security technology, the habit of a company of land here in constant motion, to have enhanced the effect of the worst earthquake in the national history.

Four hundred kilometers along the coast sank, remained largely devoid of emergency relief due radiottiva in central Fukushima, one realizes that the worst might not have been discovered yet. Sendai, the capital of Miyagi prefecture, more than a million inhabitants, is still half under water.

There are thousands of buildings destroyed, the evacuees do not eat for three days and do not drink the night air drops to four degrees below zero and only a few can take shelter with a blanket dry. "We lack essential medicines and blood - says Mikiko Dotsu, team leader of doctors without borders - and lack of energy prevents it from working.

Hundreds of people, particularly children and old, needs to be out of here as soon as possible with helicopters or ships. " The elementary school is used as a morgue Natori: the inside, not covered by sheets, hundreds of bodies, maybe a thousand. In one corner are stored the bodies unrecognizable human remains considered.

The more one goes back to the north, from the heart of the epicenter, the scenario is really taking the profile of a non narratable apocalypse. The seaside town of Matsushima had seventeen thousand residents. E 'reduced to a village a few houses in the sea and sailors of the great fish market there is no trace.

The inhabitants, in shock, say that the tsunami of 11 March will go down in history but for stealing the world's archipelago Matsushima Kaigan. There were 260 small islands, peninsulas, dozens of green dip in the Pacific, among the most stunning scenery in Japan. Black rocks, tufa towers, sand like snow, hot springs, ancient villages and a host of Buddhist temples and Shinto invaded by peace.

Sendai needed from the coast over an hour by boat to enter the paradise of monkeys and deer population of over two hundred thousand people. No more can be seen from the mainland and islands fishermen ensure that the archipelago was submerged. At Ishinomaki, the island of Miyato, live 166 000 people, of which there is no news.

Half the town is destroyed. The fishermen of the island of Kinkazan, the "golden flower" Honshu, no longer find dozens of other islands, remained under the sea level. The census of the disaster is hampered by the destruction of thousands of ports and vessels. The islands of Matsushima is totally isolated from Friday and also the marine laboratory of the University of Tuhoku in the town of Onagawa, shows no signs of life.

Certainly the Ojika peninsula, the island of Oshima and Fukuura, are now below water level and it is impossible to know how many have managed to save themselves, how they could succeed. The islands have acted as breakwaters against the force of the sea, protecting a tract of land, but condemn itself to disappear.

Along the coast, which is today a natural place and totally changed beyond recognition, however, are thousands of collapsed buildings also Shiogama, 59 000 residents and the largest fish market in the prefecture of Miyagi. Hundreds of people are missing at Iwanuma, where people are camping on roofs.

A Rikuzentakata, Iwate Prefecture, on Saturday pointed to four hundred bodies are returned by the tsunami. Teams of rescuers from Taiwan, say that in the plain of mud there could be at least as much. A Rikuzen Takata, a town of twenty-eight thousand people, the buildings demolished by the tsunami, more than eight thousand.

Hundreds more in the south, Minami Soma. The fact that Japan still does not want to accept is exhausted out the tsunami-mutilation with a profound and devastating. Between the capital and Kesennuma, apex north end of the devastation, hundreds of villages no longer exist. The ports are destroyed tens of thousands burned and sunken boats.

Fishing accounts for 15% of national GDP and the economic damage is huge looming. In this age of the earth quake, largely impassable by car and not reached by the machine of relief, hovering now over 300 000 displaced people, desperate for an unknown number of dead and missing. The majority of the population, just under three million people, has lost everything and struggle to find water, food and something to defend themselves from the cold.

The aid was slow and insufficient: 100 000 men are lost in a desert of rubble and could transform themselves into refugees. Only now beginning to take shape the contours of a tragedy in the early hours, after the shock of 9 on the Richter scale, had seemed miraculously averted. It is said that only Japan could withstand a similar shakes: we are discovering that it did not happen, that even the Rising Sun was stronger than a nature that the illusion of having submitted.

"The wave went up - says Yukio Hokusai, Takata Rikuzen survivor - and the first floor of the house was flooded. We went out on the roof and also our neighbors in the building side, were there. A construction site to prevent mud flow and the mountain of mud saliva. I saw the Endo family disappear into a black abyss, while the youngest child clung to the satellite dish.

" Of all this, along with the pain, in northeast Japan is only the fear of another final shock of a nuclear contamination 400 times higher than normal, abandonment, being left without a future. In the afternoon off Ebina U.S. aircraft carrier docked to the "Ronald Reagan". The Marines who distribute rations of bread and rice to those who are preparing for the third night in the open, have the mask on your face.

Survivors bow, thank you and immediately covered her mouth with his hand.

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