Sunday, March 13, 2011

Among the ghosts the country eaten by the wave of Sendai

SENDAI - Now the ocean is back in its place. But after yesterday has moved to the ground, the survivors of Miyagi Oki, the great shock that sweeps the prefecture every 40 years, no longer recognize the bay of Matsushima. Natori on the beach of the fishing village in the valley of Sendai, regurgitated the 273 bodies from the sand during the retreat of the monster were taken away at dawn.

There are still traces of the remains, etched in the dirt, mold as a children's game. The epicenter of the tsunami is now deserted, silent and motionless, enveloped by the smoke of dozens of boats adrift in the sea still burn, like torches in a ritual of souls. But it is all over the Northeast of Japan, thirty hours after the most violent earthquake of the century, to appear before people as a new and unfamiliar land.

Hundreds of miles of coast between Tokyo and Kesennuma, have changed their profile. The beach of Sendai, the capital of Miyagi prefecture, was little more than two hundred yards wide. Now extends to within two miles, as a black desert dunes littered with spit buildings, masts, and carcasses.

The red roofs and green with a few houses remained standing emerge from the mud in a few minutes wiped out the dreams and work of generations. Few men, the spectra of Sendai, moving in a vacuum, unable to orient themselves in the place where they were born and raised. They try their homes, children, countries should meet somewhere, but can not figure out where they are, nor if they are trampling on the land on which they are moved every day before the big wave rinse it as a dress finished by throw away.

The villages overlooking the bay until Friday, Natori, Tagajo, Shiogama and Ishinomaki, have disappeared. It also lacks other, further south, as Rikuzentakata, swallowed by the foam along with four hundred inhabitants. The three main fishing ports, Kesennuma, Ishinohaki and Shiogama, are closed and cleared.

The official accounts do not mention it, but the inhabitants of the Japanese coast now know that the sum of dead and missing at the end will prove to be much higher than you dare to push. Jishin of the great earthquake, it remains a perfectly level expanse and compressed, where sparse forests of towering pines.

They resisted the youngest, thinnest and is the only volume vertically along three hundred kilometers of coastline. They are the signature of thunder. The leaves are confined to the peaks. And 'the level to which you are stretching the first wave of the tsunami that has united the sea to the sky, at 15:14 on Friday, twenty-eight minutes after the devastating quake off the Pacific.

A South Korean military measures 14 meters in height. A face as hard as concrete and fast like a train, which explains why the island of Honshu like never before. The earth shook again, he seems not to be never completely still. One hundred and forty shock in less than a day, sixteen of which more than 6 on the Richter scale, was not convinced the people of Sendai to abandon their city.

The first mission was to make visible their dead to preserve their honor, which suggests to hide the pain, the manner of the samurai. Over four hundred dead bodies were recovered and put back together, dressed and made up in the university classroom, in the upper part of the city, before the teams of volunteers allowed themselves a moment's rest or a bite of a shark.

Eighty-three dead were workers at a shipyard in Natori. Friday, concerned about the impact of the earthquake of 14:46, remained at the factory to secure the boats. They did not believe that the tide could run both on the sea. Gone are the whirlpools, only to be thrown on their beach, a mile further north.

A dozen were instead fishermen and ran towards the water to rescue them from the tools of their lives as normal in the midst of a storm. The others, dead and missing, were dragged to the shore from houses and gardens in the suburbs east of Sendai, where the river Hirose-gawa: almost six kilometers stuck in the mud that fell in the ocean, a river subsided as Amazon.

Now the tide has completed its cleaning and County of Miyagi, the most shocked the nation, looks like a boundless landfill. No one can say where it was what, before yesterday. Air upside down, carcasses of cars, light poles, twisted rails, trees, whole stretches of asphalt, chunks of buildings, train cars and boats come together in an inextricable tomb helpless modernity in Japan.

No electricity, no water from the taps, railway lines and roads can not be traveled to the north of Fukushima, interrupted telephone communications. Columns of people on foot or by bike with a helmet on his head and a blue blanket on his shoulders, parading without a word along the perimeter of the expanse of mud.

More than 70 000 and would like to go home, look for people who have no say and no one knows what really happened. Witness only to repeat its own history and that "this time there was nothing to do," such as comforting a hymn to the fatality. "We lived four miles from the coast - said Sekimura Aoki, optical Sendai - a protected forest and paddy fields.

We have always complained about not being able to see the sea. After the shock we left the house and garden instead of c ' was the Pacific. " At every jolt hear a distant roar and people are sitting hours to watch what is left of what the nation was known as the "city of trees". Thousands have watched the cold night on the hills, some on the roof, counting thousands of buildings have disappeared.

The attraction of the horror is due to its failure. The mud that is still maintained, as the mud building, is not puffed up with things destroyed. Float whole buildings, buses intact, perfectly preserved a shed, a kiosk for the fish that seem to open. The impact of the sea he has not disintegrated, but ripped from the ground, lifted and carried away as booty of war.

The survivors of the earthquake Sendai say that they were ready, but not against the tsunami, and that the land can not object to the water. "Even if a wall encircling the town with twenty-meter high concrete - Nahoko Amaka says, the glory of the local consumption - can save us from the ocean.

So now we must reshape our country: no one should live and work more than ten kilometers from sea. " Nahoko rescued 23 children in elementary school in Ishinomaki. They did not want to interrupt the birthday party of a fellow: a few minutes before the mud bury the institute, Nahoko believed that the impossible was possible and led them by force in Nishi-Koen Park, under the volcano Funagata.

Here were two popular "onsen". The hot springs were closed and other hot springs mysteriously appeared further downstream, in a rock who has split. Nobody complains, nobody cries or calls for the injustice of fate, but it is clear that the population feels trapped. "We live clinging to the volcano - an old woman named Eiko says - and hanging on the ocean, the epicenter of the earthquake the planet.

We have been decimated by the atomic bomb. Craters and yet build on the coast and we have 55 nuclear power stations on the crossing of four tectonic plates. It 'clear that Japan needs to rethink itself, if it is to have a future. " Thousands of people spend their second night after the apocalypse in the place where it is consumed.

Sendai Airport Kuko, in Natori, has a quality: nothing can break down, the sea has gone along the river and first responders distribute balls of algae and water bottles. A few hours ago pictures of this place, with water that invaded the first floor, the plane dropped like bowling pins on the track, the monorail and reversed the asphalt like a snake wriggling mutilated, have been around the world.

Already there no one bay, the port looks like a set of abandoned and displaced people gather in the departure lounge around a radio with batteries. They listen in silence to the news about the radiation leak from the plant in Fukushima, ninety miles to the south and the specter of another evil, even more ruthless and incontrovertible, flies to the survivors who seek in vain for a blanket.

Earthquake, tsunami and "bomb" atomic. It 'hard to resist and fight against those who are alive to witness the distress of the country sinking force of nature and the weakness of its development model. "A few miles to the ground - said Takumi Morimoto - and Tokyo would have been swallowed up.

We will not return soon to be those who have been in the last forty years." The Japanese, in northeast Honshu, do not run over and hit the stillness in which, for the first time, you expect to wake up from hell. In some stands the pride of being there again, having defeated the earth would swallow them, but now want to wake up in a house in the family, as before Friday.

In Japan is not asking for help. The dead and the tears are not exchanged for a performance. However, under the stars, but one left here now and the ghosts of Sendai hope to be soon forgotten.

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